Roaring Twenties Style: A Guide to 1920s Men’s Fashion
Step back in time to an era of jazz, prosperity, and revolutionary change. The 1920s, often called the Roaring Twenties, were a decade that broke old rules and set new standards, not just in culture but also in clothing. After the austerity of World War I, men eagerly embraced a new sense of freedom and expression through their wardrobes. This period saw the birth of modern menswear, moving away from the stiff, formal attire of the Victorian era and welcoming more relaxed and comfortable styles. From the sharp suits of city financiers to the casual knickers of college students, 1920s men fashion was diverse, dynamic, and defined by a spirit of youthful rebellion. In this guide, you’ll explore the iconic looks, essential garments, and lasting influence of this pivotal decade in style.
Key Takeaways
- A Shift to Modernity: The 1920s marked a significant departure from formal, restrictive pre-war clothing, introducing more relaxed fits, lighter fabrics, and a greater emphasis on personal style.
- Iconic Suit Styles: The jazz suit, with its high waist and narrow shoulders, and the more conservative sack suit, became staples for day and evening wear.
- Casual Wear Revolution: The rise of sportswear and leisure activities introduced casual items like knickers, sweaters, and two-tone shoes into the everyday male wardrobe.
- Essential Accessories: Hats like the fedora and straw boater, along with bow ties, pocket squares, and suspenders, were crucial for completing any 1920s look.
- Lasting Legacy: Many elements of 1920s men’s fashion, from the cut of a three-piece suit to the popularity of the fedora, continue to influence contemporary menswear.
The Post-War Fashion Revolution
After World War I ended in 1918, society changed rapidly. Many men returned home hoping to leave behind old traditions and the rigid formalities that characterised the past. Reflecting this desire, their clothing choices shifted significantly. Men preferred softer fabrics, looser silhouettes, and a more youthful aesthetic over the stiff, high collars and structured suits of earlier years. The 1920s became a celebration of life, and fashion was a central part of that celebration.
Economic Prosperity Fuels Fashion
An economic boom during the Roaring Twenties meant that more men could afford to invest in fashion. As a result, men eagerly followed new trends and expanded their wardrobes. Not only did this era set the stage for the modern man’s closet, but it also made comfort and individual style more important than ever before. As society grew more dynamic, so did fashion, allowing every man to find his own identity through clothing.
The Quintessential 1920s Suit
The suit was the heart of a man’s wardrobe, and in the 1920s, its design transformed remarkably. Classic jackets became looser while shoulders appeared more natural. Unlike the tight, restrictive coats of the Edwardian era, the new “sack suit” provided comfort and sophistication.
From Day to Night: The Three-Piece Suit
For both business and social occasions, men typically wore a three-piece suit made up of a jacket, vest, and trousers. The vests were often single or double-breasted and sometimes decorated with lapels. If you were a young, style-conscious man, however, you might have chosen the bold “jazz suit,” recognised by its high-waisted, wide-legged trousers and sleek, fitted jacket. This distinctive look was ideal for a night out at a jazz club, offering a nod to the energetic spirit of the decade. Throughout the 1920s, people explored both conservative and adventurous outfit options.
Fabrics and Patterns
As you look closer at the materials, you’ll notice that fabric choices have expanded. While wool remained a favourite, lighter fabrics like flannel, tweed, and linen became popular, especially during warmer seasons. Patterns played a crucial role in the 1920s men’s fashion. For everyday business suits, pinstripes, windowpane checks, and subtle plaids were standard. In contrast, sports coats and more laid-back attire showcased bolder designs. By selecting specific fabrics or patterns, men expressed their personalities and social status. If you’d like more details about these historical fabrics, be sure to visit the Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT) archives.
A New Age of Casual and Sportswear
One of the most important changes in the 1920s was the growing acceptance of casual wear. As men enjoyed more leisure time, they needed clothing that matched an active lifestyle. Today, we can see how this trend helped shape modern fashion.
The Shift from Suits to Sportswear
Traditionally, men wore formal suits for nearly every occasion, but the 1920s challenged this old rule. The new popularity of casual and sportswear made room for a much wider range of clothing options, matching different activities and settings.
Knickers and Plus-Fours
Few garments capture the 1920s casual style better than knickers—baggy trousers that fastened just below the knee. Whether you were golfing, driving, or hanging out on campus, knickers paired with tall, patterned socks created a fashionable and sporty appearance. Plus-fours, an even baggier version, hung four inches below the knee. When the Prince of Wales wore this style, its popularity soared in both the United States and Europe. For many, these items came to represent the era’s playful and youthful energy.
The Rise of the Sweater
Around the same time, knitwear underwent a significant change. In the past, sweaters were strictly athletic wear. However, during the 1920s, they became fashionable outer layers appropriate for everyday wear. Fair Isle and argyle patterns were especially prominent and commonly seen among college students and golfers. Sweater vests provided comfort, layering options, and a sharp look without the formality of a full vest. Even today, you can find timeless knitwear similar to what’s available at newsasshop.
Essential 1920s Shirts and Trousers
Every great outfit starts with the basics, and during the 1920s, both shirts and trousers received key updates. As with other parts of fashion, comfort and practicality became priorities.
The Soft Collar Shirt
Although some men still wore stiff, detachable collars for formal occasions, soft attached collars quickly became the new standard for everyday use. Men found them easier to wear and maintain. Shirt collars came in many shapes, from pointed styles to the distinct rounded club collar. Striped, pastel, and crisp white shirts dominated the market, while new materials made them even more appealing. By relying on soft collars, men moved one step closer to modern fashion, putting comfort first at last.
High-Waisted, Wide-Leg Trousers
If you examine trousers from the era, you’ll spot their defining features: high waists and wide legs. Typically, men wore their pants at the natural waist and kept them in place with suspenders instead of belts, since belts were still a novelty. Many trousers sported cuffs, adding weight for a better drape and a clean finish. Among university students, particularly in Oxford, even wider trousers—known as “Oxford bags”—became a memorable fashion statement, emphasising the lively and unique attitude of the time.
1920s Men’s Shoes: A Tale of Two Tones
Fashion in the 1920s would not be complete without stylish footwear. Sophisticated leather shoes with pointed toes defined the polished look of the day. The classic cap-toe oxford, perfect for business or formal wear, remained a favourite thanks to its sleek design and comfort.
Style and Innovation in Footwear
However, the decade became famous for its adventurous two-tone shoes, often called spectators. These iconic shoes paired white with black, brown, or other bold shades. Confident dressers wore them to summer parties and sporting events, making a playful yet stylish statement. As the world opened up to new forms of entertainment, men seized every opportunity to show off their personalities—from head to toe.
Shoe Style | Primary Use | Common Colors | Key Feature |
|---|---|---|---|
Cap-Toe Oxford | Business, Formal | Black, Brown | A separate piece of leather on the toe |
Two-Tone Spectator | Casual, Sporty | White/Black, White/Brown | Contrasting colour panels |
Brogue | Country, Casual | Brown, Tan | Decorative perforations (broguing) |
Loafer | Casual, Leisure | Brown, Burgundy | Laceless, slip-on design |
Topping It Off: The Importance of Hats
In the 1920s, no outfit was truly complete without a hat. Hats served not just as accessories but as a symbol of social status and sophistication. Wearing the right hat added polish and flair to any ensemble.
Popular Hat Styles
The soft-felt fedora became a versatile staple—at home in both business and casual contexts. Men also turned to the formal Homburg for special occasions, thanks to its elegant single centre crease. Warm weather called for straw boater hats, which dominated summer wardrobes. Although bowler hats were declining in popularity, men still wore them, especially in more traditional or rural settings. Meanwhile, newsboy caps added a laid-back touch favoured by working-class men and country gentlemen alike.
Dapper Details: 1920s Accessories
No matter how sharp your suit, the right accessories could make or break a 1920s look. Men used accessories to display their style, ingenuity, and status. Notably, suspenders remained a necessity, since trousers didn’t reliably support belts.
Making a Statement with Flair
Bow ties and neckties incorporated vivid colours and lively patterns, often crafted from silk or rayon. Pocket squares emerged as the favourite way to add a splash of individuality to any jacket. Tie pins and collar bars kept neckwear crisp while contributing an extra degree of polish. Every detail counted, and when assembled thoughtfully, these items elevated the entire outfit. By the end of the decade, accessories helped cement the sophisticated image of 192men’smen fashion.
Formal Wear and Evening Attire
While daytime fashion grew increasingly relaxed, formal evening attire continued to hold high standards. If you received an invitation to a black-tie event, you would probably wear a traditional tuxedo. This suit featured a single-breasted jacket with peak or shawl lapels (generally facing satin or grosgrain fabric), plus a white pique waistcoat, a white bow tie, and a stiff-fronted formal shirt.
Stepping Up for Special Occasions
When it came to white-tie events, strict rules applied. Guests dressed in black tailcoats, matching trousers with double side stripes, a crisp white waistcoat, and elegant accessories. The tradition ensured a memorable distinction between daywear and evening wear, reinforcing the ceremonial side of 1920s men’s fashion. The difference between a relaxed day look and an exquisite evening ensemble was unmistakable.
The Enduring Influence of 1920s Style
Despite nearly a century passing, the style developments from the 1920s still influence modern fashion. Designers continually return to the classic three-piece suit, revisit the enduring charm of the fedora, and reimagine knitwear inspired by that vibrant era.
Modern Revivals of Classic Looks
TV shows like Peaky Blinders and films such as The Great Gatsby have recently revived public interest in 1920s men’s fashion. Today’s designers adapt the silhouettes, fabrics, and playful attitude of the decade, making these looks relevant for twenty-first-century wardrobes. If you are curious about fashion’s evolution, the Victoria and Albert Museum has outstanding archives to explore. The 1920s’ blend of elegance and comfort keeps inspiring clothing choices around the world.
Conclusion: A Decade of Dapper Distinction
In summary, the 1920s brought sweeping changes and a lasting impact on men’s style. This era bridged the gap between the strict, formal styles of the nineteenth century and the approachable, comfortable fashion we enjoy today. Men of the Roaring Twenties dressed with a bold sense of adventure, whether choosing an essential sack suit, playful knickers, a handsome fedora, or flashy two-tone shoes. Real freedom and individuality characterised 1920s men’s fashion, setting the foundation for today’s menswear. By combining timeless elegance with forward-thinking ideas, this decade continues to shape personal style in every era.
FAQ
1. What was the most common suit style in the 1920s?
The standard suit of the decade was the sack suit, featuring a loose, natural shoulder design and, often, a matching vest for versatility.
2. Did men wear belts in the 1920s?
Most men wore suspenders (braces) because trousers had high waists and belt loops were uncommon. Belts existed but mainly served as accessories or in military outfits.
3. What kind of hats did men wear in the 1920s?
Fedoras, Homburgs, straw boaters, and newsboy caps frequently completed an outfit. The type of hat chosen depended largely on the event and season.
4. How did the end of WWI affect 1920s men’s fashion?
Demobilisation and a renewed desire for comfort inspired men to adopt softer fabrics and looser styles while easing daytime dress codes.
5. What are Oxford bags?
Oxford bags, extremely wide-legged trousers originating with students in Oxford, became a quirky trend representing youthful energy and new fashion boundaries.
